Coexistence in Morocco

Dear Friends,

It has been a while since I last wrote. I thought I would take this time to write to you about something that I knew nothing about and perhaps you don’t either. I hope it will interest you. While staying here in Fes, Morocco I took a day with my friend Youness Abeddour to visit all of the Jewish sites in Fes. Did you know that there were many Jews in Morocco before the creation of the state of Israel? The foundation of that state was actually the cause of a very large population loss here in Morocco as nearly a quarter of a million Jews moved from Morocco to Israel during that migration. I was surprised to discover how many different Jewish sites there were to be seen here in Fes. I had the great pleasure of visiting two synagogues, a Jewish cemetery, a museum, a Jewish center, and the Mellah. We first visited the cemetery where I was mistaken for a Jew by the caretaker and greeted in Hebrew. The reader will do well to note that this fellow is a Muslim and not a Jew and yet he had no problem greeting me with Shalom as is the Jewish custom. We saw many graves in the cemetery. There was one tomb which was devoted to several of the Grand Rabbis of Morocco. Apparently Morocco was once a stronghold of Judaism and not just simply a place where a few Jews simply happened to live. In the cemetery we also saw the tomb of the beautiful Jewess Solika, who was executed by the sultan because she would not convert to Islam in order to marry him.

Here I stand before Solika's tomb

On the other side of the cemetery one will find a very old synagogue which is now a museum. It was founded by some Jewish women in 1928. The museum was full of everything from religious articles to weapons, books, and even old coins. It was a very interesting place to visit. After leaving the museum, we went to yet another synagogue called Aben Danon which was much older. It was built in the seventeenth century. We were greeted at the gate by another Muslim man who is the caretaker of this very important piece of Moroccan history.  In fact, this particular synagogue is listed on the world monuments watch as one of 500 monuments worldwide which must be preserved.  



This is where the Torah was once read in this ancient synagogue.



From there we went to yet another synagogue, but this one is still being used.  We were greeted by the Jewish men who were there for evening prayer. This was the first time I had ever attended prayer in a synagogue and so I was quite surprised to see how things proceeded. There was prayer and a lesson during which the men held conversations as they thought necessary. One fellow even called to the rabbi during the lesson, “Enough, enough”. It was a great deal more informal than I expected. I noticed one thing very quickly both as we entered the synagogue and as we left it. As these many Jewish men passed the Muslim owned shops on their way to and from the synagogue, they commonly greeted their Muslim neighbors. I cannot speak for what is happening in the rest of the world, I can only speak for my experience here in Fes, Morocco. But this is what I have seen, Muslims are taking steps to preserve Jewish heritage and history here in Morocco and Muslims and the Jews that remain here are on friendly terms. They are neighbors and friends.

Here I set at Evening prayer in the synagogue.

I will also say this for Morocco. I have had many many meals in the homes of Muslims.

I have slept and dined in Muslim homes ever since I arrived. They all know that I am a Christian but they have treated me like a king. Before I came to Morocco every one told me that I should not come because Muslims hate Christians. Even after I arrived I have had messages from my friends to remind me that Islam is violently opposed to Christianity. I have not read the entire Qu’ran and I am not a scholar of Islam and so I cannot speak for what Islam officially teaches, but I can speak from my experience. My experience is this, that Muslims have treated me well. In their homes, I have been nursed when I was ill, I have been fed until I could eat no more. I visited one Muslim house and they were disappointed that I could not remain long enough for them to slaughter a sheep for my meal. Every day they give me tea, they bring blankets to me when I am cold, they have given my countless gifts and they treat me as if I belong to their family. I cannot speak for Islam, but I can speak for my Muslim friends. I would trust them with my very life and I have on various occasions. Even if Islam is violently opposed to Christianity and to Christians, it seems that these people are good enough and smart enough to know how to treat their fellow men regardless of religious or philosophical differences. I would not trade my time here in Morocco for anything. These people are among the finest that I have ever known.

Even as I was typing this essay a programe came on the television in which a medley was sung.  In the background one could see both a cross and a crecent and in the medley one could plainly here both the words "Ave Maria" and "Allahho Akbar".  Perhaps there is hatred and strive among differing religious parties in certain places, but certainly not here in Morocco.  Here there is peace and affection between Muslims and Christians.

Jillali (جيلالي)

A related article by Youness Abeddour:

http://mrmorocco18.wordpress.com/2011/03/16/fez-a-home-for-jews-a-cradle-of-judaism/