Moroccan Judaism: A Culture in Danger?

I have recently written this review of a documentary which Youness Abeddour produced.  The documentary is very informative and professionally executed.  You may read my review here:

http://moroccoworldnews.com/2011/08/moroccan-judaism-a-culture-in-danger/

Jillali (جيلالي)  

Coexistence in Morocco

Dear Friends,

It has been a while since I last wrote. I thought I would take this time to write to you about something that I knew nothing about and perhaps you don’t either. I hope it will interest you. While staying here in Fes, Morocco I took a day with my friend Youness Abeddour to visit all of the Jewish sites in Fes. Did you know that there were many Jews in Morocco before the creation of the state of Israel? The foundation of that state was actually the cause of a very large population loss here in Morocco as nearly a quarter of a million Jews moved from Morocco to Israel during that migration. I was surprised to discover how many different Jewish sites there were to be seen here in Fes. I had the great pleasure of visiting two synagogues, a Jewish cemetery, a museum, a Jewish center, and the Mellah. We first visited the cemetery where I was mistaken for a Jew by the caretaker and greeted in Hebrew. The reader will do well to note that this fellow is a Muslim and not a Jew and yet he had no problem greeting me with Shalom as is the Jewish custom. We saw many graves in the cemetery. There was one tomb which was devoted to several of the Grand Rabbis of Morocco. Apparently Morocco was once a stronghold of Judaism and not just simply a place where a few Jews simply happened to live. In the cemetery we also saw the tomb of the beautiful Jewess Solika, who was executed by the sultan because she would not convert to Islam in order to marry him.

Here I stand before Solika's tomb

On the other side of the cemetery one will find a very old synagogue which is now a museum. It was founded by some Jewish women in 1928. The museum was full of everything from religious articles to weapons, books, and even old coins. It was a very interesting place to visit. After leaving the museum, we went to yet another synagogue called Aben Danon which was much older. It was built in the seventeenth century. We were greeted at the gate by another Muslim man who is the caretaker of this very important piece of Moroccan history.  In fact, this particular synagogue is listed on the world monuments watch as one of 500 monuments worldwide which must be preserved.  



This is where the Torah was once read in this ancient synagogue.



From there we went to yet another synagogue, but this one is still being used.  We were greeted by the Jewish men who were there for evening prayer. This was the first time I had ever attended prayer in a synagogue and so I was quite surprised to see how things proceeded. There was prayer and a lesson during which the men held conversations as they thought necessary. One fellow even called to the rabbi during the lesson, “Enough, enough”. It was a great deal more informal than I expected. I noticed one thing very quickly both as we entered the synagogue and as we left it. As these many Jewish men passed the Muslim owned shops on their way to and from the synagogue, they commonly greeted their Muslim neighbors. I cannot speak for what is happening in the rest of the world, I can only speak for my experience here in Fes, Morocco. But this is what I have seen, Muslims are taking steps to preserve Jewish heritage and history here in Morocco and Muslims and the Jews that remain here are on friendly terms. They are neighbors and friends.

Here I set at Evening prayer in the synagogue.

I will also say this for Morocco. I have had many many meals in the homes of Muslims.

I have slept and dined in Muslim homes ever since I arrived. They all know that I am a Christian but they have treated me like a king. Before I came to Morocco every one told me that I should not come because Muslims hate Christians. Even after I arrived I have had messages from my friends to remind me that Islam is violently opposed to Christianity. I have not read the entire Qu’ran and I am not a scholar of Islam and so I cannot speak for what Islam officially teaches, but I can speak from my experience. My experience is this, that Muslims have treated me well. In their homes, I have been nursed when I was ill, I have been fed until I could eat no more. I visited one Muslim house and they were disappointed that I could not remain long enough for them to slaughter a sheep for my meal. Every day they give me tea, they bring blankets to me when I am cold, they have given my countless gifts and they treat me as if I belong to their family. I cannot speak for Islam, but I can speak for my Muslim friends. I would trust them with my very life and I have on various occasions. Even if Islam is violently opposed to Christianity and to Christians, it seems that these people are good enough and smart enough to know how to treat their fellow men regardless of religious or philosophical differences. I would not trade my time here in Morocco for anything. These people are among the finest that I have ever known.

Even as I was typing this essay a programe came on the television in which a medley was sung.  In the background one could see both a cross and a crecent and in the medley one could plainly here both the words "Ave Maria" and "Allahho Akbar".  Perhaps there is hatred and strive among differing religious parties in certain places, but certainly not here in Morocco.  Here there is peace and affection between Muslims and Christians.

Jillali (جيلالي)

A related article by Youness Abeddour:

http://mrmorocco18.wordpress.com/2011/03/16/fez-a-home-for-jews-a-cradle-of-judaism/

 

A View of Morocco

Until now, I have not posted many photographs here as I have striven to include only those which illuminate the articles that I have written.  I have tried to include several photos here which will represent the many aspects of my holiday up to this point.  I have taken hundreds of photographs and it would be quite impossible to include them all here.  I hope however that this will give my readers an idea of what I have seen thus far.  

Relaxing Moroccan style in the home of some friends.

I am standing before a drinking fountain in the medina.  It is difficult to say how old it must be.  Notice the beautiful tile work and engraving.  This is commonly seen every where one looks in Fes.  

My friends and I standing before one of the gates to the medina.

Sheesha is rather common here.

A view of the city of Fes from a hill top fortress.  

Here I am in the Jellaba which I received as a present from the father of my friend Youness.

Moroccan ceilings are often adorned with this beautiful plasterwork.  

I am standing before an inscription of the Moroccan declaration of independence which was written when they threw off French rule.  

A Moroccan chandelier. 

Youness and I standing before a museum in the medina.

Here you can look through another of the medina's gates to see one of the city's many towering minarets.  

Here I stand in the Jewish cemetery in Fes.  I am in the tomb of the grand Rabbis in this photograph.  Some people do not realize that there was once a very large population of Jews in Morocco.   

Here is one of the beautiful windows from an old synagogue that we visited.  

Here I stand before the gate of the Mellah (Jewish quarter) in Fes.  The Mellah was usually situated near the palace so that they could have the protection of the sultan.   

Here I stand on a beautiful tree lined avenue in Fes.  I am told that it is the longest avenue in Northern Africa.

Moroccan homes are very elegant.

I hope that you all have enjoyed your little tour of Fes with me.  I will be posting more photos both of Fes and of the other places that I will visit.  Salaam for now.

Jillali (جيلالي)